FAQs

Q. Do you have a show site?
A. Yes. Please click on 'Our Showground', 'How to find us' or 'Why not visit our show site?'.

Q. I have designed a building. Can you give me a quote?
A. Yes, we have a process, but, briefly, we will draw up a simple jpeg using MS Paint including doors, windows etc, revise and review it with you and then, after receipt of the deposit, we will submit our jpeg to our manufacturers who will produce detailed CAD drawings from which they will manufacture the building.
We will work very closely with you on a bespoke building. Our Terms and Conditions provide more detail of the process. You can call us for a preliminary discussion at any time.

Q. How can I find out about delivery?
A. Please refer to our Delivery Policy.

Q. Do you supply locks and handles as standard?
A. Yes.

Q. Can I buy a two-storey cabin?
A. NB: This reply refers to the United Kingdom. We recommend that you contact your local Planning office at the outset for advice. You should then contact us for further information.

Q. Do you supply bitumen shingles as standard?
A. No, our buildings are supplied with a 19mm Roof board and will require a roof covering - this is because we can offer a choice of coverings for customers to choose from. We recommend heavy-duty bitumen shingles or recycled rubber roofing slate for a more authentic heavy duty finish, but we can also supply other types of roof covering. Please call us for details.

Q.Which vehicle(s) do you use for deliveries?
A. Your log cabin could be delivered to you using either

1. a lorry with a fork lift mounted on the rear
2. a lorry with a Hiab crane (can reach about 6m away from lorry)
3. a flat bed lorry which would require off-loading by hand
4. a small transit sized van with swing jib crane (small buildings for local delivery only)

We will advise you of your options when we arrange your delivery. Please see our Delivery Policy for more details.

Q. What skills and which tools do I need to build my Hortons Building?
A. We would expect a customer who intends to build one of our buildings to be competent at DIY. ie at least capable to carry out a construction task, you require more than the skills to fit a shelf - it is a mini building project and should only be tackled by somebody who is comfortable undertaking such a project.

You will require basic joinery equipment for both our Easibuild framed sheds and our log cabins (some elements in our building kits are supplied as standard sections and/or lengths which will be required to be cut to size during installation).
In addition to our installation guide, nails and screws, you will need:

• Saw - to cut various trims to size (plus ideally, also a circular saw as you will be required to "rip" some planks down in order to finish the roof and floor installation of a log cabin)
• Ladder
• Trestles
• Hammer
• Mallet
• Battery driver / drill
• Spirit level
• Square

Q. How are your log cabins made and what finish can I expect?
A.  Our buildings are made with softwood timber, which is a natural material which will change (both appearance and
dimensions) with differences in temperature, humidity and general weather conditions.
The timbers used have been kiln dried to 16 - 19% and then planed before cutting or machining.
This means the timber finish is not comparable to the smooth finish of plastic, steel or glass.
You will need to understand the nature and finish of the external timber we use in our products- they are not the same as the
internal "prepared" joinery timbers in your house for example, and are not intended to be. Timber can be totally unpredictable with how it splits or cracks, which can happen in a very short periods of time- it will swell and/or contract which results in stresses in the grain causing splits or cracks in the timber. Sometimes they can be deep or wide (called shakes or cracks) which can appear unsightly but they are to be expected (especially so if left unpainted / untreated during hot weather). Once the straps have been cut and the timber unpacked, the lengths of timber will be un-restrained, therefore the building should be built as soon as possible. Any timber yet to be used should be stacked flat and protected from direct sunlight to avoid any excessive warping or twisting of the timber. During the build, door  and window frames should be installed as soon as possible, these will hold the non-interlocked log ends in place and prevent them from twisting or warping. 

We would expect a competent person to resolve any surface finish problems by filling (using a flexible filler) and sanding to a finish before decorating.

Q. Can you make bespoke, made to measure log cabins?
A. Yes we can. We can make any size, shape or design - we ask for customers input at the beginning of the process which is then turned into full production plans for approval before manufacture begins and before any timber is cut. This way, we can ensure that we supply everything to the correct design and size. Our windows and doors are the only standard modules with a bespoke design, and they are supplied with standard architraves - sometimes these may be too wide or long to fit into a bespoke design and will need to be trimmed down to fit on site accordingly (this may also be necessary with some of our standard designs as well where the windows and doors are positioned very closely to each other).

Q.What modifications can I make / adjustments do I need to make to my log cabin after installation? *IMPORTANT*
A. Log cabins are built without the use of a vertical framework which would hold the walls at a set height. They are composed of horizontal logs which lie on top of each other and are taller during the autumn/winter. This may also mean that the walls could move in and out of exactly level and plumb - the cabin may be exactly level when installed but then settle down and be slightly out of level, but then also move back into level during the winter or summer months. This is part of owning a log cabin - the walls will definitely move from season to season, but this does not compromise the structural integrity of the building.
The walls are usually 17 logs high and each log can absorb enough moisture during the /autumn winter that they can each swell by 1mm, so the log cabin could be 17mm higher during the autumn/winter.
Log cabins will take approximately 2-3 weeks for the initial 'settling down' but will take a full year's cycle (Spring, Summer, Autumn & Winter) to fully settle after construction, where the logs could move substantially and the height of the building will reduce by at least 30mm. In most cases, this will cause the door and/or windows frames to move to some degree and therefore causing the doors and/or windows to bind slightly. You can rectify the problem by altering the adjustable hinges to re-align the door and/or casement.
The 'settling down' MUST be allowed to happen without obstruction. This means that you must not fix the window or doors frames into the surrounding logs so that the logs are 'free-floating'.
You must not nail or screw the door and/or window frames into the logs. You must not use a gap filler, mastic or thick layers of paint which would 'glue' the logs to the frames.
The consequences of not allowing the logs to move will cause severe problems with the cabin and will result in gaps appearing between the logs either side of the window/door frames.

You must not build stud wall partitions within the cabin that are permanently fixed to the wall logs (you  must use sliding fixings or fix through slots), or extend to / are fixed to the underside of the roof (there must be at least a 70mm gap from the top of your studowrk to the underside of the roof and/or purlins) - the cabin WILL settle down and therefore gaps will appear between the wall logs, or in the worst case, the studwork framing may even lift the roof off of the cabin causing severe damage to the building.

In some cases, the frames may need to be re-squared because of the settling process. You can do this by unscrewing the 2 internal side architraves, re-squaring the frame, i.e. equalling out all of the clearance gaps around the casement/door, temporarily put a wedge in place and then fix a small packer in each corner to stop lateral movement. Then remove the temporary wedges. You must make sure that the packers aren't so tight that they will stop the logs moving up and down because they still need room to move.

If you have an insulated roof, the ceiling boards can shrink after installation, especially in a heated building (more so if they get wet  or damp prior to, or during installing them), which can lead to gaps between the boards once they dry out again. These boards are installed in such a way that they can be gathered back in again by simply pushing them together from either end of each roof bay and extra boards introduced into the celing structure as required - always leave a small expansion gap if doing this in case the boards swell again (the gable coving may need to be unscrewed and removed in order to slide new boards in, then replaced again afterwards).

The same principle applies to the floor boards - our floor boards are supplied as kiln dried to between 16 - 19 percent moisture content, but they will always move according to the moisture content in the air (outbuildings are rarely heated to the same amount as a house, and therefore the timber is subject to more movement than in a house.This is caused by the variation in air moisture content - the colder the temperature, the more likely it is that the ambient air will be damp. Hence damp the corners commonly found in unheated/derelict houses)....

a) If the building is going to be heated, then generally floor boards will dry out and therefore shrink a little - hence the reason why nearly all old buildings have gaps between their floor boards. It is possible to use floor board clamps when fitting in this situation - but be warned - if the building is not always heated and the air moisture content within the building increases (in the winter, for instance), then the floor boards will swell and potentially buckle because the standard expansion gap will not be enough to take up this amount of swelling, and in extreme circumstances the floor will need to be re-laid.

b) If the building is not going to be heated, then they will swell during the winter months, hence the reason for leaving expansion gaps around the perimeter (as stated in the instruction guide). In this instance, it is not wise to use floor board clamps.

The floor boards should ideally be allowed to acclimatise for a number of weeks inside the building before being fitted, thereby limiting some of the initial movement that may occur. However, this isn't always practical, and the person fitting the floor boards will have to use their own judgement when fitting them. This is especially true if the boards get wet or damp prior to fitting them - they will swell accordingly and if fitted before being allowed to dry out, this will definitely lead to gaps appearing between them once they dry out again.

If you have requested Hortons to install your building, please also see point 13 in our t&c's here - https://www.hortonsgroup.com/conditions-of-use

Q.Do I need to paint or treat my log cabin after installation? *IMPORTANT*
A. Timber treatments must be applied to the exterior of walls (must be waterproofing), the interior of the building, including the ceiling and to all exterior fascias, trims, windows and doors. You must ensure that all joints between the wall boards are thoroughly painted (paying special attention to working the paint into all corner joints) such that a waterproof seal is formed between the boards, there should be no breaks in this seal around the external faces of the building - in extreme weather conditions, wind pressure can drive rain through timber joints, be they vertical or horizontal, and cause dampness inside your building. We advise that a flexible paint is used to allow for any timber movement without breaking the paint seals between timbers. All treatments must be applied in accordance with the manufacturers directions. Do not use emulsion internally as it will flake and crack and absorb air moisture to dis-colour into what looks like a damp patch.

Q. Do you provide advice on Planning?
A. NB: This reply applies to the United Kingdom.
No. We do not provide Planning advice. Please see our Terms and Conditions.
UK Government advice can be found at: https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/43/outbuildings/6

Q. Do you include the price of the floor in your log cabin prices?
A. Yes, the price of a standard floor (19mm floor boards supported by bearers spaced every 400mm) is included.
We also can offer you an upgrade to 28mm floor boards, please call us for details.

Q. How to fix the floor boards in your log cabin?

A. Once the building has been weathered in, it is safe to lay the floor without danger of it being exposed to the elements. Use the same principle as used with the roof, ie. start at one end and work towards the opposite wall (2 x 60mm galvanised nails at each junction with the floor bearers), always checking that the remaining gap is equal at either end of the boards to avoid having to cut a wedge shaped final board to finish. We do not recommend secret nailing the floor boards - these are outbuildings and not generally heated as well as a house (if at all), meaning that the floor boards are subject to much more extreme changes in temperature and moisture hence they are more likely to move over time. This means that they need to be strongly fixed as described above - secret nailing will not be strong enough and will probably work loose. If required, use floor board clamps (can hired from a tool hire shop) or floor board ratchet straps (can be bought or hired) to make sure of a good tight finish between the boards. Always try to lay any boards that are not quite straight between 2 straight boards, this will help to hold them straight over time.
NB Always allow at least an 8mm gap between any wall and the floor boards to allow for expansion.

Q. How are log cabins measured?
A. Log cabin measurements are taken from the overall length of the logs (log-end' to 'log-end') that make each wall, excluding the cantilevered roof canopies. Every log cabin has corner nibs, which support the corner joints. The nibs on our log cabins protrude from the main walls by 100mm. The nibs are not load-bearing so they do not need to be supported by a base. All of the building measurements shown on our website are listed in a standard format with the first measurement listed being the wall dimension that has the main access doorway in it (i.e. the front of the building). 

Q. How do I deal with the logs between the front door and windows?
A. You build the cabin up to and including the purlins, excluding the windows/doors and short logs. You then tack temporary roof boards to brace in the middle, front, and back. Offer at one end and mark off where they cross each purlin to make sure that the spacings remain the same in the middle. You then remove the rear architrave from the first window, slide into place and then re-fit the architraves. This then gives a slot for the short logs to house into without falling out. Do the same with all of the joinery and do not forget to equal out the gaps. You should have about 5-10mm gaps up each side of each frame. There will be a very large gap if you push the logs into a tight fit.
Only remove the temporary roof boards when they get in the way for fixing the permanent roof boards.

Q. Is it easy to install electrical wires and plumbing into a log cabin?
A. Yes. You will need to follow some rules, as below:

1. The electrical work must be carried out by a qualified electrician.
2. As with window or door frames, the logs must be allowed to move freely in a vertical plane (fixing in a horizontal plane is not an issue because timber will not shrink or swell along its grain), therefore if you are using conduit this should be through slots rather than solid fixings to ride up and down within the bracket), ideally you should use pipe conduit fixed with saddle brackets (not fixed too tightly) as this will allow the conduit or pipe to move within the saddle brackets- just make sure that the conduit or pipe is at least 50mm shorter than the wall (if it is the full height of the wall) as the cabin could easily settle down by this amount (conduit is very strong and could stop the logs from settling causing gaps in the wall or in extreme cases it could even lift the roof off the building). Nothing should be fixed such that it runs across a window/door frame and then wall logs in the same run.
   
3. Lights should be fixed to the purlins and not the t&g roof boards, otherwise the fixings could puncture the roofing above. It is not recommended to use inset downlighters if the roof is insulated and theoretically has a wide enough void to fit them within for 2 reasons-
    

   a) They are usually quite hot when switched on with nowhere for the heat to dissipate

   b) The bottom layer of roofing is designed in such a way that it is free-floating in a horizontal plane (external buildings are subject to extreme conditions which can cause these boards to shrink (in summer when it's warm and dry) or swell (in winter when it's cold and damp) a lot more than you might expect, if fixed permanently they could swell and buckle or shrink causing gaps. They are free floating to allow for periodic corrections to be carried out very easily- they are installed with expansion gaps at either end to allow for expansion, or if they "gap" then it is very easy to push them back together without taking the roof down and starting again.

4. The easiest electrical installation method is to fix the distribution board in a corner of the cabin and run a tail down the corner in order to run 1 ring around under the floor and bring tails up wherever a socket is required (if the cabin is a twinskin then the cavity can be utilised for this), then run another tail up the corner from the distribution board in order to lay another ring around the ceiling for the lights with a tail hanging down for the light switch (not forgetting to allow for the expansion gaps as mentioned above).

Additional flexible joints and "swan necks" need to be used in all vertical water pipes to avoid stresses and strains which could result in leaks and/or floods.

NB - If the vapour barrier (roof, walls or floor) is penetrated in order to feed wires and pipes (or anything else) through, it is VERY IMPORTANT that it is then sealed up again. If left as open gaps, it is possible for air moisture, water vapour or steam (if in a kitchen area or bathroom) to enter into these areas and condense thus causing timber discolouration, mould or rot. Water vapour can travel a long way within voids before condensing, and can sometimes seem like another independant problem but is in fact related. It is very simple to seal around wires but all to often neglected, causing major problems much later in the life of the cabin.

Q. Can you move a log cabin once it has been built?
A. NB: This reply applies to log cabins only.
It is possible to move a log cabin BUT the following factors will affect the ease of doing so:

1. the size of the log cabin;
2. the configuration of the building, e.g. if you wish to re-configure doors and/or windows; and
3. the construction of the base.

Please call us to discuss and we can give you some general advice as there may be many other variables that will affect your particular requirements.
You should also contact your installer for specialist advice.

Q. What type of base do I need?

A. The base can be a concrete slab/raft foundation or paving slabs (as long as they are bedded onto a suitable sub-base) or a timber platform. It is essential that the base is exactly level - otherwise the higher up the building you get, the worse it becomes to the point where it is no longer possible to make the parts fit. If there are peaks and troughs across the base (ie undulations less than 2mm) this can lead to a bouncy floor and windows & doors not working properly). It will also need to be large enough to receive the building - the floor bearers should not be cantilevered off the edge of the base.. 

Q. What options do you offer for lining Hortons Easibuild buildings?

A. We offer a number of standard choices, plasterboard, moisture resistant MDF and tongue & groove timber boarding (TGV). There are 2 types of plasterboard, square edged and tapered edge - square edge requires plastering, tapered edge requires taping and filling (commonly known as dry lining). The dry lining option should be taken for anything other than plastering by a professional plasterer. All options will still require full decoration after installation.

Q. Can I book a date for my delivery and installers at the time of ordering?

A. This is not possible as we can only offer estimated time of arrival to our UK storage yard at that time - we import from our European factory which involves international hauliers, ferries and customs checks, all of which can cause delays for variuous reasons 

• lorries break down 
• ferries can be cancelled or delayed
• a full customs check of an articulated lorry can take up to 3 days 
• not forgetting the weather - our factory is in the Baltics which can reach -25 centigrade during the Winter which can stop machinery working and lorries being able to travel causing possible backlogs until Spring

All have happened in the past and all of which are out of our control. Therefore we need to wait until your building arrives in our yard to ensure that we can keep to the arranged dates of delivery to your property. Upon your request, we are happy to keep you up to date with the timings of your order as things progress.

Q. Where can I find information about Health and Safety?
A. NB: UK only
Please see the Health and Safety Executive website at: http://www.hse.gov.uk/index.htm.

Q. Can I return items if I change my mind?

A. This is covered within our T&C's, but essentially yes within certain parameters -

The Buyer may return any delivered Goods within 14 days of delivery for any reason whatsoever and must notify the Hortons in writing via email. But  we do point out that You have a statutory duty to take care of goods.....